08 September 2017

Today was the day of days. It was sunny this morning – a rarity – and then pouring rain and back to sun. On our way to retrieve the horses, a rainbow was in the sky. Did not try to find any leprechauns or a pot of gold. But I probably should, since I want to move here! The two Florida women left early for fear of Irma.

A brief spout of rain when we headed out for our ride, but otherwise, the roads were clear for us to trot, retracing some steps from yesterday. But then farmlands of sheep, goats, and cattle with such green grass all around we got to ride through. Just thinking of the history of all the stonewalls and old stone barn ruins was exciting. We had to dismount and hike our horses up a hill to the top of the brim where we could almost see the ocean if not for one more hill. But after we scaled down the hill, we met the red minibus and had lunch and coffee to refuel. Toibin was of course ready for lunch.

Once refueled, we began our arduous trip up the hill but it was well worth it. Once mounting and getting a few drinks in for the horses, and ourselves we were met with scenery that like many of us, the Irish take for granted. With one last sprinkle of rain, blue skies fought the clouds that retreated rapidly. What it revealed was endless – the Connemara Mountains, the Aran Islands, and the Cliffs of Mohr. So much to see and so little words. It was all I could do to keep taking deep breaths and taking in the fresh air and moments as long as I could.

We took our last breaths of the apple-cinnamon round bales, the views of heather and heaps of the most diverse wildflowers, the endless stinging nettles trying to sting us as we took a wee, but most of all, taking the last view and breath of our horses we have become so close to this week. And now, we must say good-bye to each other from all walks of the globe – USA, France, Switzerland, Germany, and Sweden.

07 September 2017

A gray morning it was. We got out to the horses just a few miles out of town, and got saddled and mounted before the rain started, which was almost instantly. It was more misting, but as we get closer to the Atlantic, the wind was quiet heavy.

Just after we left the main road, we passed by a our first glimpse of rocky limestone cliffs that are characteristic of the Burren, as well as a stone memorial with a cross. Back in 1997, a man was on his way home from the pub, and though is friends asked to drive him, he said he would walk. He was walking along the stonewalls, when he lost his balance and fell in one of of the disappearing lakes that are formed from heavy rains, and then rapidly disappear in about a days time. An uplifting story for the day.

The rain began to get heavier as we made our way along the road passed many farms lined with stone walls for fencing. Back in the day, they used to have to move stones to get livestock in and out of pastures and then restack the stones. We passed the ruins of an old law school as well.

Then the rain got even heavier. We had to dismount and walk a busy road before continuing on the Burren Trail. We had only a short distance to ride before we reached a picnic area for lunch and we could change and add some layers for warmth. The rain stopped for a while as we fueled ourselves with coffee and tea before mounting into our wet saddles.

After lunch, it was a few hour ride through Burren National Park. It was truly otherworldly. There are no words to describe the rock formations, cliffs, boulders that line the fields throughout, exposing geological layers that tell the story of glaciers and ice ages. It stopped raining just enough to have some photo time, but with the wind, we carried on soon enough.

Winding our way down the hills, the wind settled and we found ourselves back on the road, passing sheep and barking dogs. But were just outside of Lisdoovarna, and we now have our first glimpse of the Atlantic, preparing us for the Cliffs of Mohr tomorrow and with any luck, a view of the Aran Islands and the Connemara Mountains.

For now though, we are checked into the hotel for the night and getting warm by whatever means –shower, coffee, tea, whiskey…

06 September 2017

How could I not say another glorious day! No rain at all, well unless you count early in the morning and it of course only because I sat my suitcases outside. But it was sunny when I did. Oh, Ireland!

Our horses were led down by our guides, with one horse being led, and the others bounding down the hill. Toibin was super muddy today. It’s always nice to have a warm up. We got on our way, straight up the steep, grassy fields, and to the top of the hill, where were still managed to find bogs. The water was so deep in one area, it rivaled the lake yesterday as far as depth was concerned.

We started out with more galloping, and finally getting my legs stronger and getting Toibin to stop cross-canter and move into a canter I can somewhat sit to. But again, the fairy-tale setting! Moss so green and plump, you wish you could just nap on it. Especially after lunch. And the heather seems to be getting more and more purple. We are now entering the burrens and seeing the landscape changing. Grassier fields, rockier and more boulders throughout the landscape, but there are still horses, cows, and sheep everywhere. And mega sheep! Whatever they may be.

The green landscape full of hills, farms, and pines is breathtaking still, but we overnight in Corofin, and finding ourselves back in civilization. There was a highway were it would be to dangerous if not prohibited to ride the horses on, so outside of town, we had to untack, and load them on a lorry and wish them well until tomorrow, for their field is on the other side of the highway. It was sad not be able to remove their halters and watch them trot off or roll happily. But memories are most important, as I keep telling myself as I go to pull out my camera. Nothing can ever do the sites, thoughts, smells, and memories as the photos in your mind.

But what civilization does bring, are people and pubs. We visited a local pub here in town, were I had the obligatory fish and chips. Only time I plan to. And of course, Irish lager. But I am saving my Guinness and Jameson for another night. Though we only rode 11 miles over 4.5 hours, I am still sleepy. And of course, beer does not help, but, we are in Ireland and it is the ONLY thing open.

Off to get closer to Galway tomorrow!

05 September 2017

Today we met our mounts in the field we left them for the night. With a bit of whistling, calling his name, and of course, food, Toibin started to come up to me. Another great part about having a horse. The rains held off most of they day and the sun was peaking through at us.

We rode high up on the hills with views of amazing Irish farms – so green, the cattle, and of course, the sheep! Many times, we were greeted by other horses in the fields we were riding next to, whom decided to trot alongside us for a bit. Continuing up through the woods of Slieve Aughty Mountains, we kept getting higher and passed along many stone ruins. Most of the ruins are of farming villages where the people came together to live and work on a landlord’s farm, and for it, they were given the potatoes to eat. Of course, once the potato blight came along, and the Potato Famine hit, the people moved to cities to find work, left on boats to America where they often died of illness, or other means, leaving the farm villages behind.

We continued to weave through the forest of muck, the roads along farms that smelled of apple-cinnamon from the round bale hay, and passed bright stone houses lined with flowers of various colors and the obligatory yellow lab or border collie in the yard. Lunchtime lead us to a road alongside preservation land, still lending breathtaking views.

After lunch, we continued to gain ground uphill before entering the White Sand park, where endless switchbacks, each turn highlighting a view of Lough Derg, endued us up on the sandy shores of the lake. Like the story of “Red Lake” the bottom was red. We singled-filed the horses and began to ford the lake. Being shallower than I thought, the horses still heaved up their heavy hooves, making great splashes in the water, and smiles on faces. As we trotted, the splashes and smiles both grew bigger. Right out of storybook.

Although we passed the little red minivan, it wasn’t waiting there for us. No. We rode another hour and a half though around the lake, on new roads for new homes. The wind picked up, feeling like a fall evening in the States. Cool and crisp. And though our bums ached, no one complained. We kept our smiles and or views until the little red minivan once again appeared. We unsaddled, walked the horses to their field for the evening, watched them trot up, up, and away up the hill. Looking at our watches, we had ridden 20 miles in 6.25 hours. It was now a half-hour before dinner. Famished!

Tomorrow, we leave An Sibin Riding Center and heads towards the Atlantic Ocean. We will overnight in a new town, Loftin, for the night, with promises of many pubs. I am holding out on Guinness until I can have one on tap. Meanwhile, it’s ciders and lagers.

Oh, the things I have missed about horses…

04 September 2017

The luck of the Irish. Well, we were not as lucky with the weather this morning, but this is Ireland, so misty and foggy weather was to be expected.

After another farm breakfast, we boarded the red minibus and went to retrieve our horses where we pastured them last night. Luckily the rain washed Toibin off some from his roll the evening before. But man does he shed! Covered in little white hairs, but it feels goods to smell of horse. Only horse people really understand this though.

We squished our way through bogs all throughout pastures. Public land is open for people to graze animals on, but they wander without fences, so fining your animals when you want to catch them causes a bit of a search. Our view of the River Shannon and Lough Derg were limited on this side today due to the fog, but no matter – we saw them the day before. But the story of the Lough Derg, or the Red Lake goes:

Long ago, it was only possible to send stories by giving your most valuable possession. The king on the island only had one eye and wished to send a story. He asked the messenger what he wanted – money, is first child, etc. – but he wanted his last eye. The king agreed, but when the eye was removed, it was have said to have bled so much, it turned the lake red.

The mist became rain, but stopped as we got our lunch site. It was next to some ruins of former cottages and the former guardhouse that was between the roads of County Galway and County Clare many years ago. During the famine, all these were abandoned, but if families have proof of ancestral heritage to that land, the government will give it back. Unfortunately, with all that was going on, most paperwork was lost. Most of the cottages are overgrown with moss and vegetation now, but the fuchsia trees from Latin America that were planted, give away their whereabouts. And then the willow trees will most likely lead you to the wells.

After lunch we continued galloping our way down roads and through forests. You know, a typical day. Toibin finally started cantering in 3 beats instead of 4 at times, so my ass hurts slightly less. But that could all change tomorrow…